Monday, February 26, 2007

Abisko, Kiruna, and the Norwegian Coast

Best trip so far. Nine of us (me, Wayne(Hannah's boyfriend from England), Hannah, Lyndsey, Lauren, Trevor, Ryan, Sarah, and Brittany) packed up and headed to the far north of Sweden to see the ice hotel. We rented two cars, two cabins, bought a crap load of good food, and left town Friday morning...well Friday afternoon by the time we were actually making progress. The plan was to drive up to Abisko on Friday, see the ice hotel on Saturday, and drive home via Norway on Sunday.The drive up was fairly uneventful. Lauren saw the first moose, but by the end of the trip we had seen a total of 11, and not a single picture to show for it (usually due to someone shouting moose, me asking "what?", and then we're past it). Also speaking of pictures, I put them up (Abisko, Kiruna, and Norway on the right). We got into town somewhere around 9pm, picked up the keys and found our cabin.

The cabins were nice enough, we had two units side by side that overlooked some mountains across a frozen lake. We did all of the cooking and socializing in one and really only used the other for sleeping (I still think we should have crammed everyone onto the living room floor but that's the Hoofer in me talking). Anyway, the places were comfortable and the food was damn good. We had chili the first night with some things I had never thought to put into chili (avocados, green and red peppers, fresh tomatoes, salsa). It turned out to be amazing. That was followed up by pancakes and real maple syrup sent over from Canada Saturday morning; spaghetti, salad, corn, and broccoli Saturday night; and breakfast burritos with more avocado, peppers, cheese, eggs, salsa, tomatoes, tortillas, etc.) Sunday morning.

After a lazy Saturday morning, we made our way to this somewhat random chairlift that (for 100kr) went to a cafe near the top of a mountain. On the way to this chairlift we passed the entrance to the Kungsleden trail. I didn't get a picture, but Wayne said he and Hannah got one for me. That'll have to hold me over for a couple months until I can come back and do the first 100km or so. Speaking of which, Tiana - you up for some Swedish backpacking this summer?

The lift didn't quite go to the top of the mountain, but it was close so Trevor and I took off for the ridge line while the rest of the group headed to a relatively close rock outcropping. It was a good hike, but holy crap am I out of shape. My lungs hurt like hell by the time we stopped. The worst part about going to this place was that I realized people were actually skiing there. It wasn't a resort or anything, just one slow chairlift to the top, but because it wasn't anything major there was tons of untouched powder. When I realized that I had no way to get a pair of skis I may have cried a little.

After checking out the view for a while we headed an hour east back to Kiruna to see the ice hotel. This place was completely made out of snow and ice, even the pictures on the wall...it was amazing. There was evem a pretty big chandelier made of nothing but ice and fiber optics. Each room had it's own theme and was designed and sculpted to match that theme. Of course you also needed a way to keep warm, which is why we had to order a drink from the ice bar. The entire bar was built with ice, right down to the glasses they served your drink in. The best part (or worst depending on how you look at it) was that the drinks were the same price as any bar in UmeƄ - only 105kr (~$15) They went so far as to build a chapel of ice next to the hotel. I really can't describe this place and even the pictures don't really give you an idea of what it was like. If you ever get a chance to see it, I highly recommend it.

The next day we cleaned up and got on the road by 10am. We had heard the drive through Norway was good for scenery so we opted for that route. The only problem we might have had was that Lyndsey and Trevor had forgotten their passports. Turns out, we didn't need them. The border was so lax that the only way to tell was the change in speed limit signs. You took a look back, then forward again and said "Hey guys, I think we're in Norway."
The drive was definitely a scenic one...about 12 solid hours of weaving in, out, over, and under mountains and coastline plus another 4 hours of Swedish countryside. Again, the pictures didn't do it justice. Every couple kilometers there would be a 7-10% grade on a narrow icy road. This road also had one of the longest tunnels I have ever been through. It was at least 4km long and we were underground for about 3 minutes. There were also quite a few suspension bridges and even a ferry that took us across one of the many fjords. The ferry was 198 Norwegian crowns ($32) but it was worth it. We sailed down the middle of the fjord surrounded by snow covered mountains on all sides. The only thing that comes close to comparing is Alaska.
I also got to taste the Arctic Ocean (though it may have been mixing with the North Atlantic at that point). It seemed slightly less salty than other oceans I've tasted.

Thank god for the car we rented. All in all, those were the most difficult roads I've ever driven in my life, and I was doing it for 12 hours. Good thing for top of the line snow tires and anti-lock brakes. The traction control I could have lived without. I almost killed us about 15 times (not seriously mom, don't freak out). The crazy thing is that our car, an Audi A6, was brand new (less than 3,500km, we almost doubled the odometer) and found out that MSRP starts at $42,000. Why any company would give it to a 20 year old foreign kid to drive through these mountains is beyond me.

It was definitely a good way to spend the weekend and the best trip I've been on yet. The best part is that I get to do another version of it in a week or so when Jenny comes over and we head up to not only the ice hotel, but some dog sledding and skiing as well.

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